BRAPA - Middlestown & Horbury Bridge (Wet West of Wakefield!)

Brian the dog and a real fire - see pub 705

If it hadn't been for the local knowledge of Bryan from work, Tuesday night may have taken a long time to get off the ground.  The 16:40 from Leeds was delayed but a 16:45 to London Kings Cross had me in Wakefield at 16:57, and I didn't have to walk to the bus station as the bus stopped on Westgate.  Cheers Bry.

It was a leaden grey and drizzly day, perfick Wakefield conditions, but bus 232 soon had me at Middlestown a few miles to the west for 17:36 precisely.

705.  Little Bull, Middlestown

This was a very local pub, with three men and a young barmaid all looking nervously at me as I ordered a Scrummy Blonde from the usually disappointing (but not on this occasion) Wentworth brewery.  There was more friendliness on display from a Dad who waited patiently with a pint whilst his teenage son finished off some homework on a 'tablet'.  The youth of today eh?!  The other barmaid with stars on her neck and a cheery smile also seemed more of a people person than the squat Nick Barmby-esque girl who served me.  The ceiling was low but the lack of phone signal seemed to not be an issue as there was a blackboard giving the free wi-fi password, but could I get it working?  Not a chance!  The fact that the first letter was either "G" or "C" and the "J" might have been a "T" meant I soon gave up.  The locals at the bar started moaning about politics, radio stations and typical West Yorks barfly topics.  A smell of home cooking and a lot of floorboard creaking from above was soon taking over but I'm not sure if it was a ghost making tea or not.  In summary, lovely old pub, routine experience, lacked a bit of 'wow' factor.

About to cross the road to the impressive Little Bull, Middlestown.

The rain was still spitting so the 20 minute walk to Horbury Bridge made sense as there wasn't another bus due for a while.  10 minutes later, it made less sense as the sky had gone black, the rain was torrential, and I was "enjoying" the best thunder & lightning on a BRAPA day since Doncaster in July 2014.  

The fact the pub was across the road on a bridge over the River Calder only added to the precarious feel, but the traffic eventually took pity on my soaked state and let me cross ......

705.  Bingley Arms, Horbury Bridge

It was one of those "choose which of the two rooms to enter" and despite choosing 'left' this time, my uncanny knack for choosing the room with "nothing going on" prevailed.  So this time, I moved on in with the locals!  And I'm glad I did as I entered a bustling little bar with good ales and the first roaring fire of the autumn.  A crazy old chap started chatting to me but he was a bit edgy and told me everyone else in the pub was a "nob 'ead" so I sidestepped away with my gorgeous pint of Abbeydale Moonshine as another lightning strike crashed down and Keeley Donovan issued a warning from the TV at the end of the room.  I dried myself in front of the fire but was swiftly joined by Brian the dog who had the same idea as me.  He was attached to "Ossett Lizzie", so called because she worked for Ossett brewery and was called Lizzie.  I think.  Brian was a great dog and went to sleep on my foot in front of the fire for the duration of my stay, a blatant attempt to win "Pub Pet of the Year",  Ossett Lizzie loved BRAPA and we spoke on Ossett pubs at length and acknowledged each other on social media, though the locals at the bar seemed less enthralled!  Mr Ossett was a bit quieter but perked up when we spoke to Rat brewery and his great pump clip illustrations/t-shirts.   Still, it was great networking and that fire was roasting me alive (thanks a lot Brian!)  By the time I left (only JUST in time for the bus to Wakey as it turned out - I was lucky), I said a cheery bye and have to say, it was one of the top positive BRAPA experiences of the year, particularly on a midweek.  Wonderful pub.

Torrential rain as I cross the road to the magnificent Bingley Arms

The rain was still ridiculous so I popped into Harry's Bar in Wakefield for a return visit (I was quite drunk the first time) and I will be reviewing it my archives soon so keep an eye out for that.

Finally back in York, I got a Burger King on the way home but with the rain worse than ever, my chips disappeared through a hole in the soaked bag.  Ooops.  I saw them on the way to work this morning and considered retrieving them for breakfast (I'm joking).  

Coming Soon in BRAPA  

Things settle down a bit over the next week, a sedate return to East Yorkshire ticking on Saturday with Dad as I do two of my remaining five.  Next Tuesday, we are back in Ilkley for a pub I always knew I should've made pre-emptive.  And then Sheffield on the following Saturday which I'll be fine-tuning.  I've nearly finished the next lot of archived pubs too.

See you soon, Si

     

BRAPA - Nottingham Central (to a finish)

Fabulous Flemish building in Nottingham

Nottingham rocketed up to 13th in the BRAPA league table as I visited the five pubs required to complete the central area of the city.

There are 3 BRAPA pubs hiding in this photo - can you name/spot them?

My BRAPster 'band of merry men' were Dad & Tom, with Ben deciding to do his own VAT & Fiddle inspired day (which apparently wasn't a success, a BRAPA lesson there), and Chrissy's A & D making an interesting train decision that got them too late into Notts for any quality pub time.

We had a bit of waiting around in the Sneinton area of town before our 11am opener unbolted it's doors, but we tried to make the cultural best of it with a look at old tram sheds, old banks and modern arenas.  Who says BRAPA isn't a whitewater ride?

700.  King William IV, Sneinton, Nottingham

The King Billy (with crowned goat on pub sign) was a fitting way to bring up the (2nd) 700 pub landmark.  It was the young landlord/bar chap who made it, combining fine hospitality with pub and real ale knowledge to make him a 'staff of the year' contender despite not being a young brunette!  After talking us through the amazing range of LocAles, Dad and me got Shiny ones from this magnificent Derby brewery, he gave Tom his blackcurrant for free (a BRAPA first from memory) and then showed us to a superb little roof garden.  A very enterprising way to create extra space, it had astroturf and nice views over the city, plus it was a sunny warm morning.  What a great place to debate which five 'public figures' will be the next to die!  No wonder Dad did his classic line "oh, that's me settled, I can stay here all day" No chance of that, BRAPA waits for no man and it was time for the walk back towards town, with the landlord characteristically pre-empting my pre-emptive tick!

Dad & Tom in roof garden bliss at the King Billy

Barrel Drop, Nottingham

Single unisex toilet?  Check.  No blackcurrant cordial?  Check.  Straining your eyes and brain to try and work out which real ales are on and where they are hiding?  Check.  Basic room with nothing electronic?  Check!  We must be in a micro pub!!  Following on from my BRAPA report on this new phenomena, it made sense to give this one a pre-emptive try.  Tom's opening line "it's like the Hop & Vine" was harsh, but the place did have something approaching a cafe bar feel.  As instructed by King Billy chap, I said "hi" to the owner on his behalf, but he lacked the earlier chap's charm despite helping Dad to choose a rather delicious 'black' IPA and giving him a taster.  Indeed, I wondered if he was actually going to charge me for the drinks or he was testing my honesty!  Now to solve the conundrum, is this building part of the Nottingham caves system.  "No" was our resounding conclusion.  There was a nice ambiance created by some soft background music, but comfort was lacking, even my Micro pub standards.  Some Hull City fans arrived just to ask us "how the 'ell have YOU found this place?" which was quite unanswerable.  Time to leave.

I'm off caving down an alleyway in Nottingham.  Barrel Drop!

701.  Sir John Borlase Warren, Canning Circus, Nottingham

Just to underline the fact that Micro's lack something a refurbished old fashioned pub can offer, this place was an absolute gem combining comfort with a sense of the olde worlde.  It in fact only reopened in 2014 and also has a roof garden, facts I was unaware of at the time.  I had to do a double-take when we arrived, thinking "I've been here before" but I was thinking of the Lass O'Gowrie near Manchester Oxford Road, an uncannily similar curved bar at the entrance.  I'd been pronouncing the pub 'Borlasie' after the Crystal Palace midfielder, and this should have been a clue for my fantasy football team as he scored a goal.  The staff were again helpful, and most of the ales were from Lincoln Green with Dad getting a special charity one.  I like the whole Robin Hood / Maid Marian thing, but was sad I couldn't get a pint of Rabies!  We sat in a back room so we could smuggle some incredibly unsly cheese n onion rolls from my BRAPA bag of tricks, whilst Dad kept the cultural element in tact by spotting a wonderful Flemish building through the fine etched windows, so we had a bit of a photo session.  Another great Nottingham tick.

Royal Navy officer, politician, diplomat, great pub!  Sir JBW.

702.  Falcon Inn, Canning Circus, Nottingham

With Tom off on his merry way, Dad and me walked the 15 steps or so to the left which found us in the Falcon, another brilliant recent refurb of a proper grand old pub.  Again, we found a friendly and helpful barmaid at the helm - this kind of staff behaviour is unheard of in the East Midlands - and Dad thought it was fitting that we ordered an "Endless Summer" from the Black Iris brewery which she told me was only a three minute walk from the pub.  It was the pint of the day, absolute nectar of the gods we just couldn't get over how tasty it was and as you can guess, the standard today was very high anyway.  A feverish young man then rushed into the bar to tell barmaid that Titanic Plum Porter (her favourite and one of mine too) was on at the Organ Grinder, our next pub anyway!  What drama.  We sat in a nice dark cubby hole and noticed that the original Falcon pub sign had been brought inside the pub and was now hanging on the wall.  Now call me a pub geek, but I'd like to see this kind of thing more often.

Me about to steal a shopmobility scooter outside the Falcon

703.  Organ Grinder, Canning Circus, Nottingham

Rich pickings in the Canning Circus area of town, this again was probably less than a minute walk from the last two pubs aswell.  I'd been in a "Blue Monkey" pub once before, in Loughborough, and you can certainly see the similarities, lots of dark wood, low lights, youngish discerning ale drinkers, though I was glad this time that there was no huge intimidating monkey mural on the wall, which totally freaked me out in Loughborough.  Sure enough, the Plum Porter was present, but we were overwhelmed by the impressive range of Blue Monkey ales, with standards like BG Sips and Inifinty complimented by guests like Marmal-ape, which Dad was soon sampling.  I was sad to see it was marmalade based rather than marmite, and it took about two thirds of a pint before the burnt orangey taste came through.  As we sat away from the bar and observed monkey memorabilia, we wondered why they'd even bother putting Sharp's Doom Bar on as a staple beer in their pubs, before an old man came along and ordered two pints of the stuff!  The pub also gets bonus points for having proper pub snacks like pork pies and scotch eggs instead of main meals.  In fact, an excitable man confidentially  whispered in my ear that spending 60p on a Pickled Egg would line your stomach to such an extent that you can drink exactly as much beer as you possibly want without feeling drunk.  Hmmmm.

Time for a bit of monkey business at the Organ Grinder

704.  Newshouse, Nottingham

With the rather remarkable 'news' that Hull City had won at Nottingham Forest, it was celebration time, and no more fitting place to do it than a building, which in years gone by, used to be where the illiterate would go to have newspaper reports read out to them!  Now, our great host in King Billy had said this pub, close to the station, was improving because half of it was now selling beers from an exciting local brewery.  He wasn't enamoured by Castle Rock ales (I guess it's what Black Sheep is to us in Yorkshire) but Castle Rock was all I could see and it holds enough of a novelty for me to enjoy a pint of Elsie Mo, whilst Dad had a guest.  Speaking of Dad, I hadn't seen him for 15 minutes and it turned out he was having a rare but momentous pub poo, a fact I'm sure he won't mind me sharing in the public domain to add colour and life to my blog.  It gave me chance to observe what a cosy, lounge-like no frills pub this was, splendid in it's own way and very different from most Nottingham pubs, you'd never have guessed you were in the city centre from the calming atmosphere.  

Dad gets ready to celebrate at the Newshouse! 

The journey home went well, despite two train changes and I got 90 mins of shut eye before a friend's birthday reggae night, phew, all in a days work.  Detox time!  Well, until Tuesday night anyway.

Si

Original pub sign from the Falcon Inn

BRAPA - Battle of the Bridge (Hebden v Sowerby)

The West Yorkshire Midweek BRAPA trail is showing no signs of slowing anytime soon as we cracked on with three more valuable ticks on Tuesday night, and as if to signify Autumn is now officially upon us, I was ticking "after dark" for the first time in the 2016 GBG season.

I'd been to Hebden Bridge in June for a third time, but I was off to deepest West Yorks once more as it had a new tick, a pub described someone at work as "real" and one of my top BRAPsters as "cute".  It was time to investigate the truth ......

697.  Fox & Goose, Hebden Bridge

At the bottom of the steep climb to Heptonstall, it was a fair 10-15 mins from the station but worth the trek, and mercifully not too uphill as my legs still hadn't recovered from Saturday's "jaunt".  Now run by the community, a big CAMRA success story, this pub actually featured in the 2015 GBG errrm features so maybe I was a bit silly to ignore the obvious pre-emptive signs.  It was lovely and old, very much the traditional blueprint of what I've come to expect on my midweek travels, with a few little rooms off to the side but a focal bar with a few jolly locals seamlessly chatting with staff, they probably swap roles on a daily basis.  I was immediately engaged in conversation with a grey bearded old man - he smelt a bit funny so we sat across the room from each other and he disapproved of my decision to drink the new red Ossett Ale "Victoria" as he lied to me and claimed he brewed one of the other beers in his own bathtub!  We were soon onto subjects like banks, PPI, scams and this organically evolved into conversations about fish, steampunk and (at my insistence) the weather!  But the pub really did feel like the place where strangers would chat to each other, and other locals came in and out saying "hi" and "bye" as though I was a regular.  The man was more interesting than your average old man drinker, though he didn't bat an eyelid about my BRAPA challenge and had very short term memory loss.  Still, I'd had enough of 'chat' after a long day at work and left hastily!

Arriving at community run favourite, the Fox & Goose

I had time before my train for a swift half in the Old Gate.  On 30th June, I commented I'd like to see this as an indoor venue and it was more to my liking.  The barman was very friendly, perhaps a bit too OTT with the "what style beers do you like", and there was a bit of a dog and baby love in, and a mad moment where a tiny dog tried to attack a huge lumbering one, but this is a good place.

A few minutes on the train back towards Leeds found me in Sowerby Bridge for a third BRAPA trip.  The original plan had been to go to Hebden Bridge's new micro pub Calan's but I made the school boy error of not realising it was closed Mon and Tue so a trip to SB seemed to suddenly make more sense than the remaining Mirfield tick......

698.  Works, Sowerby Bridge

I'm a positive person, and my previous trips to Sowerby have both been first class.  The people, the pub staff, the locals, a very friendly and pretty town.  But I'm not stupid, I knew something less perfect was bound to lie below the surface.  Somewhere where the wankers hang out.  And by jove I think I found it here!  I really despised it, and it sounds harsh now in the cold light of day, I can't quite put my finger on why.  Maybe it was entering the building, cackling women outside or the middle aged woman who turned 180 degrees exorcist-esque to see who I was, and then span her skull back towards the bar.  Or maybe it was the barmaid, who looked at me with twisted contempt and reminded me of an awful woman I used to work with, we'll call her Vicky Bastard just for poetic effect.  Or was it the fact that this was a huge barn of a building, previously a joinery, where the locals (inbred Tim Taylor drinkers) insisted on huddling together blocking the bar, when the amount of empty space on offer was ridiculous.  And if this wasn't enough, a huge sweeping staircase leads to glass door which acts as a "function room" with the claim "a great place to do business over a drink".  And then two dogs were unleashed and the simpletons all gawped as these two out of control hounds ran amok.  At least a young Patrick Kielty thanked me as I put my glass back on the bar (Miss Bastard was chatting to friends), never to return.  What a load of old rubbish!  Yet, I can see why it's in the Guide.  BUT Puzzle Hall every single time for me.

Locals and idiot dog cram the bar at the Works.

Dusk had fallen now over Sowerby Bridge and I was back at the railway station, at another pub I'd seen twice and thought "hmmm, pre-emptive?" but then ignored my instincts.  Now it's GBG listed.

699.  Jubilee Refreshment Rooms, Sowerby Bridge

Ahhh, this was more like it, no inclusivity here.  Simply a bored young bar man desperate for customers to make his evening go quicker.  4 old locals on a circular table in one corner, and one nervous looking couple nearer the bar.  A very basic but pleasing place, not just a pub, a bit like Carnforth station and the Sheffield Tap mixed together.  I saw sweets, cake, and even a quite amazing range of teas that would put my window display at work to shame!  Oh, and they had 3 or 4 beers on so I had the gorgeous fruity Rainbow one from Elland which I enjoyed at Castleford last year.  A big banner proclaimed they were celebrating the building's 175th anniversary.  Take that Fox in Shipley!   Apparently, it took 12 years to get permission to make this a pub - and worth the wait it is if you are ever passing this way.  There was some cooked food but unpretentious looking, a "Turkey Lurker" whatever the 'eck that is - sandwich perhaps?  The place had a great musty pub old building smell too, and after the traumas of the Works, it was nice to see Sowerby Bridge has still got it! 

The basic almost tea room / post office / tourist info style entrance to Jubilee.

So then, almost back to the 700 mark which will happen in Nottingham on Saturday and this time, it won't be a Wetherspoons that used to be a Clydesdale Bank Headquarters, I can almost guarantee you of that!  But the plans for that day keep evolving, so keep your ear to the ground and I'll look forward to giving you a Nottingham report on Sunday. 

As for West Yorkshire, Horbury Bridge is up next - a midweek Heavy Woolen trip next Tuesday?  I think I can combine it with Middlestown and feel I should probably invite Richard and Jason from work as they've been integral to the previous two BRAPA trips out here.  

See you soon, Si

BRAPA - Micro Pubs : a special report

Good evening all,

If I'm going to stay on top of this challenge to tick off every GBG (Good Beer Guide) listed pub in the UK on a year to year basis, I'll need to keep my finger on the pulse in terms of pub culture.

And as we speak, here in September 2015, the buzz phrase of the moment is "micro pub".  Since receiving the new 2016 GBG, it's evident how many are appearing as new pubs for me to tick off.  It's important, therefore, that I embrace them, which is just as well because I have been very impressed with what I've seen of them so far........

So What is a Micro Pub? 

Okay, so they may lack the traditional feel of a historic old pub but their aims are simple and create a perfect pub atmosphere.  They are freehouses so they sell an interesting range of cask ales.  They shun all electronic devices and TV's so conversation is the only hubbub you get here.  I find the average micro pub goer seems to be between 30-45, a good male and female mix, seem quite a discerning bunch, not normally annoying!  The food they sell is traditional pub snacks like scotch eggs and pork pies, no gastro nonsense or restauranty feel which as you might know by now, is my overriding pet hate in BRAPA pubs.

Note there is nothing specifically listed about dimensions of the building, I guess micro as in "microbrewery" and minimalistic as much as literal "size".

Possible downsides (for a small percentage of my readership) seems to be a lack of blackcurrant cordial(!) whilst the obligatory one unisex toilet is the thing I most dislike, especially with my bladder!

Why Have They Got So Popular Suddenly? 

Having read the wonderful "In Search of the Perfect Pub" (which is probably already out of date but does touch on this 'phenomena'), it's like a mini pub revolution, almost like a protest.  This is because pubs are generally tied by pub companies and breweries and licensees have to pay extortionate amounts and cannot even put on the beers that they are passionate about.  Also, there are so many microbreweries producing amazing new beers who can't flog them to pubs because of this tie.  You only have to look at somewhere like the Black Swan in York to see how frustrating this is.  The same 5 biggish branded beers for many years now, all have had their moment in the sun, but now unless they are kept extremely well, seem rather old and tired.  The pub meanwhile, is a superb old building that admittedly, a micro pub is going to struggle to recreate the atmosphere of, especially on a cold winter's night where the roaring fire comes into it's own.  But overall, I count myself blessed to be embarking on BRAPA just as the micro pub revolution is taking off.

Micro Pubs BRAPA History

My first was the micropub that opened third - the Just Beer Micropub in Newark but I didn't really enjoy it due to "Chris Irvin Syndrome" and I didn't know micro pubs were going to be a "thing" then.  My second experience on Ulverston A-Z day was in the Snug in Carnforth, the eleventh to open.  This epitomized what is great about them.  Tiny but lots of exciting beer, a man giving us free pasties, friendly staff and locals, very basic and unpretentious.

In the last year, I've been to some crackers.  Beverley's Chequers stands out, as does Hereford's "Beer in Hand", Wolverhampton's "Hail to the Ale", the "Cuckoo" in Toddington and the "Gravity Station" in Cardiff to name a few.

Micro Pubs BRAPA Future

In BRAPA terms, at the moment they are probably most valuable as pre-emptives but I will be keeping the list on Wikipedia close to me as a point of referral, though even I can see 3 or 4 that are missing from their list that I am aware of.  There must be 150 plus by now.

Kent seems to be the main county for micro pubs (where the founder opened the first one) but I'd argue they are most relevant in places where real ale doesn't do so well.  This might explain why York doesn't have one yet (and probably shouldn't) but Middlebrough suddenly has FOUR.  Yes, not just the GBG listed Dr Phil's but the Twisted Lip which a girl told me about on Saturday, and two others I've noticed too!

I should be going to one in Hebden Bridge tomorrow but alas, no, more on that story on Wednesday!

I'll leave you with a nice stat I've nicked off Wikipedia (that's a reference by the way).  Only 0.4% of pubs selling real ale are micro pubs.  BUT 3 of the 16 CAMRA finalists for pub of the year are micro pubs, probably because they can afford to focus on keeping quality local microbrews in fine condition with none of the rubbish that goes with it.

Long live the micro pub.  I'm only just scratching the surface.

Si

BRAPA - Return to the Esk Valley

"Hanging with the sheep" - walking to Beck Hole from Goathland

51 weeks ago this weekend, I had my most traumatic BRAPA trip to date.  Firstly, Grosmont's Crossing Club was closed.  Then I broke a toe attempting to 'wade' through water to Beck Hole and was forced to abandon this.  No phone signal then meant I got lost in Castleton Moor, before my Good Beer Guide App broke in Whitby so I couldn't find my way around the pubs!  

So as I boarded the X40 bus from York station to Goathland, it's fair to say I was a bit worried about what might be in store.  It was a gruelling and stuffy journey at the top of the double decker bus, with a series of old duffers demanding the windows be closed because "there was a draught!"  I got talking to the nice lady next to me, explaining BRAPA, discussing the history of real ale, helping her figure out her smartphone, life working for a radio station and producing music in Jamaica.  It was quite an eclectic mix, and helped the journey seem less painful!  

I alighted the bus at Goathland (home of Heartbeat i.e. Aidensfield) and was soon walking the 0.9 miles to Beck Hole where I've never seen so many sheep lining the roads, munching on the grass, and generally not being scared of humans at all.

693.  Birch Hall Inn, Beck Hole

I often find myself "managing expectations" with pubs that are supposed to be classics, in case they disappoint.  No such worries here, "WOW WHAT A PUB!" is all I can say.  Well, not 'all' obviously.  I went down a little outdoor corridor and into an unlikely looking room with a tiny hatch where a nice woman served me a choice of three beers or a cider.  The pub also does simple snacks, plus beer cake and sweets.  They even had their own (overpriced) t-shirts for £15 a pop.  I initially went outside where there were some benches overlooking the Murk Esk and I could hear a steam train nearby, but not quite see it.  Everyone who came in (apart from "Computer Jones" who scowled at everyone and sat in the corner with his cheese roll) was ultra-friendly and I was soon explaining BRAPA.  I was also on door duty when people with drinks needed to get outside.  I tried a pint of the Beckswatter, their own locally brewed ale from North Yorkshire Brewery, and then, figuring I'd never come here again, sampled half an Umbel ale (a bit flowery) whilst chatting to a friendly deaf man with an ordanance survey map and love of Black Sheep.  Great pub, great BRAPA tick too.

Cheers!  My pint and the Murk Esk outdoors in Beck Hole.

Next up came the key moment of the day.  Would Grosmont's Crossing Club be open?  After all, there was a steam gala on in the village. But before that, came the signs of "road closed" and I soon realised that last year's 'impassable road' issues were not really caused by heavy rainfall, but by the fact that I was actually required to cross a ford!  In two places!  

It was no worse than last year, but with sturdy walking boots this time, I braced myself and despite some slippy rocks, I edged gradually across and didn't fall in, got a bit wet, but nothing too drastic.  Up at Grosmont, I then had an agonising wait as the crossing was down as some train enthusiasts were taking photos of some grand old looking train.  

694.  Crossing Club, Grosmont

I think I earned it, and the club was open!  Hurrah, and it was perhaps a stupid question when I got upstairs and asked friendly curly headed host and his two train-geek friends (I'm a pub geek so I'm allowed to say that!) if I could come in for a drink.  Well, has a Consett Furnace Bitter ever tasted better?, as the bottom of my trouser legs dried out!  It was such a cool little place, tonnes of pump clips on the ceiling and even more railway memorabilia.  Instead of the usual piped music, they even had piped steam train noises!  As if we needed them today.  A nice young couple from Middlesbrough called Louise and Josh came in so I wasn't the only customer, and Louise asked all the questions about the pub so I didn't have to.  Being a co-operative, the community own it so I guess our curly headed host was what you'd call a "steward".  Also turns out that pub across the road is charging £4 a pint, when it is about £2.70 in here, how does that work?  Ridiculous, and it can't have had the charm of this place.  After a bit more spreading of the BRAPA word & handing out my cards, it was time to crack on as I had quite a tight walking schedule today.  Great club this, good things come to those who wait!  

Indoor view of the Crossing Club, when I was the only customer for a bit! 

More uphill walking (it seemed to be either steep up or steep down) made the 1.5 miles to Egton seem a lot longer.  Egton felt a lot like a lot of those "North" North Yorkshire villages with a road through the centre and two swathes of perfectly pristine grass on either side, with a few pretty cottages, buildings and of course, a pub! 

695.  Wheatsheaf, Egton

The day had so far been so excellent, there had to be a bit of a "come-down" and it started here when a family sat outdoors had a dog that absolutely hated me.  It wasn't even a scary dog.  I tried to appease it by saying it was in my pub photo (see below) but the family just demanded £5 for photographing rights!  I assumed they were joking and just laughed.  And then, the "long suffering" landlord told me to close the front door as it gets stuck and causes a though draught that makes all the other doors slam.  The man seemed totally fed up, telling a local "I've been here 15 years now and not much longer!", he certainly must have had chance to do something about the door by now.  He must be doing something right though, for my GBG tells me he has 29 continuous years of Guide recognition, even if he is a miserable sod.  Plus he's a total hypocrite because when he wanted to clear up glasses from the dog family outside, he was quite happy for the door to remain stuck open!  From what I could tell from the clatter of cutlery, half the pub was taken up by food whilst I was lucky to be alone in the cosy front bar which must be amazing in winter with the fire in.  As it was, I was burning up from another long uphill walk but was too scared of the dog to sit outside!  And then the landlord asked me how my Howardian Gold ale was, to show maybe he wasn't all bad. 

In Egton, note the EVIL dog on the right hand side.

A three mile walk to Lealholm was the final push of the day, more undulating roads with no pavements, amidst sometimes beautiful, sometimes barren landscapes.  I took me about an hour so I had about half an hour in my final pub as the railway station was only 3 minutes walk.  

696.  Board Inn, Lealholm

So with my phone battery dead and my legs totally shot, I arrived exhausted at this pub, which had come highly recommended by the Grosmont steward.  And I do think it was a slight step up from the Egton Wheatsheaf.  Is it any wonder if my state of exhaustion that I totally didn't see the sign on the right hand bar saying the room was closed (this led through to a restaurant which is currently closed for refurb, and the landlady was constantly turning away phone calls from potential diners).  Anyway, she was friendly sort, and didn't stop me sitting on perhaps the comfiest settee ever on my own in this side room.  Ordinarily, I'd have gone through to the bar on the left hand side and been more sociable, as there was a nice group of locals chatting in there.  I did wave at a local old man(!) but I was just so exhausted, I needed 30 mins of down time, and finding out Hull City had taken the lead was a nice bonus and for w while, I thought my "lucky" wristband was going to be "lucky" and I'd have to wear it for every single BRAPA trip when we are playing a home game.  But maybe not..... My beer was from North Yorkshire brewery and tasted suspiciously like the Beckswatter, maybe a bit fuller bodied and the landlady told me they are based in Pinchinthorpe which really is North North Yorkshire.  It was time to get back to the station, could NOT afford to miss this train.

Over the bridge of the River Esk, the very nice Board Inn

So, after a quick change at Boro' and Eaglescliffe, I was back in York just after 7pm for a swift half in the York Tap before a bit of Sainsbury's shopping, sorted me washing, had tea and straight to bed.  A really great BRAPA day out, not at all easy, back breaking in places, but I wish they all went to plan as well as this one! 

See you on Wednesday for the latest from West Yorkshire.  September has been a record breaking month, 33 new pubs now (breaking the previous record last summer of 31) and still a couple to come, it's all good.

Si

  

BRAPA - Saltaire & Shipley

Although Wednesday was my quarterly gig night (I write a review for the bank newsletter), the recent publication of the 2016 GBG meant I could get a couple of new BRAPA ticks without venturing too far from Leeds city centre.

An incredibly rammed 17:25 service eventually had me alighting at a grey and drizzly Saltaire, similar weather conditions as on my previous visit here in December 2013.  I always feel more guilty about drinking here than anywhere else as Sir Titus Salt (who built it for his workers) was a great believer in abstinence and it seems an insult to his legacy that alcohol can be sold here!

But I won't complain too much .....

691.  Hop, Saltaire

One of the ever growing number of modern Ossett 'Hops', this is as bright and shiny as they come but with perhaps a more homely ambiance than the ones in Sheffield and Leeds at least.  A big square high roofed barn of a building with big shiny glass windows, the barmaid was a friendly lass and got some top 'bantz' going with me by asking if it was raining as I seemed like a drowned rat (it was only spitting but my new Chinese leather jacket has that dramatic effect!)  I ordered a strong 6% IPA from Great Heck which was gorgeous, and sat on a high stool in amongst the rabble.  This consisted mainly of some mis-matched work colleagues having awkward after work drinks, the kind where someone laughs hysterically and then there is silence for next 5 minutes.  It was fun to watch their pain!  I then found out this pub used to be a tram shed, and things started to make more sense.  Like York's modern but atmospheric Hop, it also has a pizzeria attached and perhaps an upstairs you can get to, it was hard to tell.  Much recommended though as I painfully had to down the last few third of my IPA as my train awaited.

Another Ossett Hop to add to the collection.

In truth, I could have walked to the next pub (0.9 miles)  in pretty much exactly the same time it took me to get to Saltaire station, go 4 minutes to Shipley, and walk up the bank but I was feeling lazy and had to conserve energy for the gig.

692.  Fox, Shipley

It was all go in this small cafe bar when I arrived as they were celebrating their second birthday.  I ordered the 'birthday ale' to get into the swing of things, brewed by the seemingly never before heard of 'Beespoke' brewery.  The quirky barman was a nice chap but he asked me why I hadn't bought a present for the fox.  A girl at the bar then introduced me to the fox, Jesus, because "he looks down on you from high".  Though he looked pretty well stuffed to me!  Despite the hubbub of happy post-work drinkers, I commandeered a good sized table in the middle of the room and realised I'd have to drink this 5.1%er fairly speedily as well.  This was a BRAPA return to Shipley for me, having been here in June 2014 and it was nice to see traffic lights have now been invented in the town.  I was intruiged to see this not referred to as a "micro pub" (the buzz industry phrase of the moment), perhaps a little too big but that doesn't normally stop them.  Maybe it was having TWO toilets?  Perhaps they even did blackcurrant cordial.  I didn't have time to find out as my train back to Leeds was due in 7 minutes.  A very nice little addition to the West Yorks drinking scene.

The fox "Jesus" - it's my party and I'll cry if I want to. 

Back to Leeds then, down Call Lane and I quite enjoyed the Oporto venue.  Pre-emptive tick it wasn't, well actually you never can tell.  It was bottles only but there was a decent if extortionately priced selection.  The barman was helpful and I sampled Charles Wells DNA, Leeds Hellfire (which I didn't enjoy) and Anchor Porter from San Francisco at £5.50!   The bands were all good (Bulletproof Bomb, Viola Beach and Elephant Trees) and it was a good night all round.

A not very pre-emptive tick at Oporto, but give it 50 years! 

COMING NEXT ... SEPT/OCT

It is officially autumn, officially my favourite season of the year.  So what lays in store for BRAPA?

1.  On Saturday, Beck Hole, Grosmont (if open), Egton and Lealholm.  There was Danby potential but after last year's farce, I'm not going to rely on 4 train connections to 'make' with less than 10 mins between them, plus Tom suggested Danby had Middlesbrough away potential.  I just hope Grosmont comes good.  I had contemplated Whitby's remaining two but it might be nice to combine these with the two in Robin Hood's Bay at a later date.  

2.  Next midweek night should see my second trip of the year to Hebden Bridge with Mirfield potential.  No reason why I can't crack on with Tuesday midweek WY BRAPA's throughout October.

3. Nottingham Forest a week on Saturday, am going to bring it down to three pre-match pubs as I felt 4 was too ambitious with the walking / time allowed.  Sir John Borlase Warren, Falcon Inn and Organ Grinder - all very close together which is good, all 12 noon openers not so great so may have to join the BRAPA Crapper for one in VAT & Fiddle.  Newshouse potential after the game.  

4.  Dad is back in 'East Yorkshire' chauffeur role on the 10th as I start to tick off the first two of the remaining 5 which have now reappeared since the 2016 GBG was published.  I'm going to a wedding evening do on this day, could the new Headingley tick be a good place to meet the four ladies I'm going with?  Would they mind?  Do I even care?   

5.  Sheff Wed we are boycotting so Loxley, Hillsbrough Hotel and a couple of others Kelham Island way looks good for that one.  However, am feeling the Isle of Axholme thing I'd arranged with Tom on the Sunday may be a step too far and probably will give it a miss. 

6.  The 24th sees part VIII of my Bedfordshire trip, this time using Bedford as a base (where I have a new pub to do) and then bussing to villages like Renhold, Felmersham, Sharnbrook and the like.  Depends how many I can squeeze in for time.  Will need some serious planning for that one. 

7.  I've booked a couple of days off for a pre-Hallowe'en spooky BRAPA date (watch this space), 

8.  And finally, a horror show trip to MK Dons.  Could I be cheeky and ask that we cross the border into Beds to get the vital Salford tick?  Unless I do it on 24th.  To be fair, there 2 or 3 MK pubs to do anyway so should be fine, but will need a chat with Dad.

So as you can see, plenty to keep me going.  I was getting a bit disillusioned around GBG publication time, but I've very much got my BRAPA mojo back now and October could be a very productive month, though September will take some beating!  

Si

BRAPA : the archives (311-320)

You lot are gluttons for punishment ain't ya?

Now that we have finished the "book-work", here's ten more from wonderful West Yorks as we venture into lovely L**ds....

311.  King's Head, Huddersfield

Throughout the noughties, I always found it strange how out of Huddersfield's two station pubs, this one seemed to be more popular with the GBG compilers than the Head of Steam which I used to love and have used for both football and Transpenine crawls.  In fact, it wasn't until me, JW2 and Krzb came on our Transpenine day out on 13th Feb 2010 that I actually gave it a chance!  We didn't 'get it' at all, washing hanging up to dry, dog bowls, clutter, disorganised staff, and strange spartan room with minimal decor, or even chairs and tables.  We commented on the beer quality being great, but it was with some relief that we returned to the HoS where train delays meant we actually were happy to be stuck here for quite some time!  And that was that until a 2015 trip on the way back from a midweek BRAPA where I decided it was still GBG listed and I should give it a chance, and this time the mental lightbulb clicked.  It hadn't changed, but I soon realised the layout was unique and wonderful with great features which seemed to work even better on a quiet Tuesday evening.  My Purple Moose anniversary beer went down a treat, and the young Asian barman was a friendly type, whilst the other locals all propped up the bar and smiled nervously from the corner of their mouths recognising one of their own.  A pub criminally under used by me, so I'm telling you, make sure you give it a visit!

A great ale in the much neglected (by me) King's Head

312.  Crowd of Favours, Leeds

Like all new pubs that come under my radar, I gave this a chance to "bed in" before my first visit despite some excitable murmurings from work people.  To be fair, the name sounded pretentious and put me off, and a quick scan at the 'clipboard' menu on my first visit, alone on Wednesday 7th August, did nothing to dissuade me.  Fondue fonts called things like "crowd of cheese" and "a favour of chocolate" seemed ridiculous.  It is a Leeds brewery pub and it's a nice smart conversion of a chippie no less, but like most of their pubs, a teeny bit lacking in true pubbub.  Anyway, I was waiting for girls to get ready for Emily's birthday meal at nearby Las Iguanas, so I drank a strong Green Devil IPA and something stouty, both over 6% and everyone claimed I was drunk at the meal! A month to the day, I brought Dad here and we had a very enjoyable Eggs Benedict breakfast and he was well impressed as we sampled a couple of Leeds ales too.  Leeds Pale when well kept is a classic, don't let the critics dissuade you.  Less than a month later, I was here again!  This time with Mark Bennett from work but it was too busy and we had to stand on a Friday night.  And finally, Emily's birthday drinks a year on in Aug 2014, Hipsters dominated the scene and despite really good staff and some nice food, we could barely hear each other over the din.  Good but not my fave.

Eggs Benedict (my fave breakfast), Crowd of Favours, 7/9/13.

313.  Duck and Drake, Leeds

When I got my first GBG in Dec 2001, it made sense working in Leeds to start trying to visit those pubs on lunchtimes although being a 1999 guide, it was all a bit hit n miss to see which were still open/good/accessible.  However, this pub wasn't then in the 2002 GBG which I probably got spring/summer of that same year.  So it makes a bit more sense to me that my first memorable visit here was with John Watson II, probably more late 2003 on a dark night when he'd travelled over to join me for one of our 'Leeds new pub nights'.  We were amazed by the huge room, high ceilings, amount of guest ales (still a novelty in these early days), and it was very spit n sawdust and very smokey - a proper rough working man's pub you might say.  There was a band setting up, we were forced to move, and I think John lost an item of clothing in the ensuing melee which was surely pinched.  I also remember a dodgy Black Sheep clock with two sheep humping each other.  I then neglected it on the whole for nearly 10 years, though I visited once on my own and once with Dan Midwood and Mark Dobson on our LLAC (Leeds Lunchtime Ale Challenge) about 2007, I wasn't impressed and the beer range seemed to have deteriorated.  However, it was more recently been taken over by former excellent landlord of Judges LodgingS and Royal Oak (in York), Andy "Judge" Yuill.  He is quite a character and he's made this pub brilliant again, still a big emphasis on live music in that main bar, lots of memorabilia, and an acoustic guitar acting as toilet door!  Ales are superb and great to see an old pub in the GBG for Leeds with all these modern ones dominating.  I've been here a few times in last three years, most notably with Dad straight after our Crowd of Favours breakfast 7th Sept 2013.  Andy was on great form having great banter (not that you're allowed to use that word anymore  .... reclaim the word!) with all these grizzled ancient locals!  Top pub if you like them 'real'.

314.  Friends of Ham, Leeds

23rd May 2013 and it was nice to find a compromise with my work friend Emily (who lets face it, finds places like Brigantes and Mr Foley's a bit too 'pubby') for somewhere to go where we could enjoy real ale, fruit beers and good food.  In the early days, I kind of tolerated it as it depended on whether you could get a comfy seat downstairs as it's popularity grew amongst fake bookcase wallpaper and board games.  On a work night out in Dec '13, I almost got thrown out for saving a seat for 4 for too long!  By our early 2014 visit, it was heaving and we had to share a bench with a couple on a first date - awkward!  So I was almost pleased when they announced they were closing for a few weeks to extend into the upstairs.  Even though it is still busy, at least you feel you can breathe now.  You've also got to be strategic.  The staff are quirky and might try and give you table service so I make sure I run straight to the bar as their menus don't really reflect the real ales on!  Food is simple, meat or cheese boards with bread and things like figs, chutney and oil, but they still try to make it foreign and exotic sounding.  If I visited it as a one off in a different town on a BRAPA day, I'd be highly critical, but as I've learnt the ropes, I kind of love it.  Beer always superb.

Emrack seemingly drinking a candle - FoH, 22nd December 2014.

315.  Hop, Leeds

To follow the usual trend, I heard about this pub immediately when it opened in 2010 but shelved it for a good year, probably until 6th Sept 2012 when main Leeds work drinking buddy Emily did an "OMG Si how have you never been here" moment and we went for a post-work Thursday night drink.  I immediately loved the place, especially the upstairs with it's "whispering gallery", punk artwork, plus don't forget the amazing pie, mash and pint offer which Mark Dobson taught me about on 27/9/12 when he gave me what felt like a 'careers meeting' here!  Even before this, I brought Jig here after our C is for Carnforth day on 15h Sept 2012, meant I'd visited it 3 times in 3 weeks!  I also brought Rebecca here but it was a weird poker night so we were only allowed to sit downstairs near a door and be offered gambling chips we weren't really interested in.  My fave times though have been with Dad, most notably on that 7th Sept 2013 and he was waxing even more lyrical than me about the place.  One of my favourite things is the location, under the Dark Arches you are under Platform 17 and the walk to get there is like being in a Batman film, but with more Ossett beer.  On Leeds Utd days avoid, I was once turned away, it is full of 'jokers' haha.  

Downstairs in Hop with Rebecca, 15th May 2014.

316.  North, Leeds

Or "North Bar" as anyone normal calls it.  I think I've got the date nailed on this one.  I was very stingey back in 2003 and when the new GBG came out in Sept '02, I let John Watson II buy it and just kept going in to Waterstones on work lunchtimes and making notes - it wouldn't happen now!  Anyway, as it isn't in the 2002 GBG, am hoping I'm right in saying 2003 is the first edition it appeared in.  I was given an extended lunch on Christmas Eve 2002 in those stupid days where they didn't let us work through and leave early, so I made the most of it by coming here "on my own!"  Confusing entrance just like the Guide said, 'blink and you'll miss it' (I did several times) but went into this modern long thin European bottles and keg bar with the odd handpull.  The range of handpulls has improved over the years.  It was cold as I sat in the only seat available, near the open front door, on Christmas Eve for heaven's sake!  I've been here more than any other Leeds real ale venue since I started work in Leeds.  Me and Piper come here for catch ups on Fridays about once a quarter.  Highlights include a Romanian telling us to mind his drink cos he had bad diarrheoa (and then apologising when he realised me and Mark Dobson were eating).  Also, I was once here on a really busy Friday night trying to get to the bar when suddenly there was a screech as girls had recognised Dan from Big Brother (he was bald, gay and from Hull), there was a parting of the waves and I exploited it to get served quicker than anyone else - top pubbing!  It's a great place.

A pint of Mutual Aid with Piper, Jan 15, hailstorm, in OUR window seat

317.  Palace, Leeds

I can vividly remember walking around Leeds probably in early 2002 using my GBG to try and direct me to this pub.  Problem is, I didn't realise Kirkgate stretched right to the city boundary where there's a church and a stone to mark it.  How much I persevered, I'm not sure but I definitely came here with John Watson II on the same night as our Duck & Drake visit.  We'll say Oct 2003 again but I suspect it may have been sooner.  Whatever, I know JW2 was very impressed and for a while it was his top pub in Leeds.  However, throughout the noughties, it had a reputation for having really slow staff, the GBG even commented on it and when me and Mark Dobson came on a LLAC (Leeds Lunchtime Ale Challenge) day in 2007 (a good 20 min stride from the bank!) we were kept waiting for so long, we were late back even drinking a pint in quick time.  Another memorable time was starting, I think, a sister Lu birthday do here after an Italian meal where we learnt about the ghost of a grey lady, who was actually a man dressed up as he went on stage playing the part in days cos women weren't allowed!  It's now a Nicholson's pub so the beer range doesn't seem as exciting as it was, but pub is unchanged otherwise, staff improved, and last time here in Oct 2014 I got told off by an old crone for drawing a curtain to make it dark!  Oh well, 

318.  Reliance, Leeds

When I read about the then 'Reliance Reading Rooms' (as it was then uncooly known) opening and appearing in the GBG, I was excited and surprised as it's location was very close to the back of Brunswick Point, where I was working at the time.  I had a couple of flimsy challenges on the go around then, one was "Beat the Christmas Shoppers" (BCS) where every working day in December 2004(?), I vowed to go to a different pub so I didn't get crushed by the idiot masses.  It didn't last for health reasons!  Another was "A Happy New Year of drinking" (Jan 2006?) where I tried to have one drink every day of the year (it didn't last due to health reasons).  I think my first visit to Reliance was one of these two, probably Dec' 04 (if it had indeed opened and appeared in the 2005 GBG, more research may be needed as all their webpages don't tell me).  It's a lunchtime place to me, I liked walking into the sunny North Bar-esque place (I wasn't used to "real ale bars" in those days) and a few neanderthal versions of hipsters stared at me, but they had a few good ales on the bar and friendly young barmaids, plus a tricky looking food ordering area to the left.  The huge glass windows and the main road meant for quite a novel drinking experience, a bit like drinking on a ring road I reported to work people when I got back.  I brought JW2 here for one of our later "Leeds ale nights" and I was most recently here in 2012 when the Nancy-gang invited me to lunch at the nearby Greedy Pig, and once, we came for a nice drink here instead (well, I was the only one who got ale and posh chips!). 

319.  Scarbrough Hotel, Leeds

Another early and oft visited Leeds pub, I surely had no problem finding this on my 'lunchtime meanderings' and am gonna stick my neck out on this one and say summer 2002.  It certainly is a pub which makes me think of sunny evenings.  "Ho ho ho, not the Scarbrough Taps, why would you wanna go there!" screeched my Premium work colleagues when I referred to it as one of Leeds finest real ale pubs.  But it really was.  It had a real golden age where it was regularly heaving, I remember feeling it was a bit of an institution and almost like I wasn't worthy.  Plus I could never get to the bar to see the vast range of ales on.  It was a prime pre-gig meeting place for me and friends circa 2004-07 where we'd have a ham n pineapple melt before watching someone like Flogging Molly at the Cockpit.  Once we saw lead singer Dave King and the nice lady one (who he somehow later married) having food and drinks here like us.  Did they get together over a Roosters Yankee and Ham n Pineapple Melt?  In June 2007, I had a mad month of being ID'd everywhere I went having not been before or since for years!  Being ID'd here was the final straw and I stormed out.  This place has lost it's magic in recent years, now a Nicholson's and with modern trendier bars selling the kind of revolutionary ales that this used to, it has fallen behind and before a 2012 gig, I came here on my own about 8pm and the place was almost deserted, I even got an armchair,  And no melts on the menu! 

320.  Stick or Twist, Leeds

Actually, sorry North Bar, I think this is my most visited pub in Leeds!  Located between both my old and new work buildings, it is the start of every work night out and these days, we sometimes don't leave, not that I go on many now that BRAPA controls my life (oh dear!) and the building of the Leeds Arena has made it as busy as Scarbrough Hotel used to be, on gig nights.  But where did it all begin?  Well, in the very early ale days (Nov-Dec 2001), the GBG pub around work was called The Londoner and I had two decent visits before a drugs raid we all watched from the window, and it was razed to the ground and is now student accomodation!  But I'm sure my first work Christmas do - Dec 22nd 2001(?) started here - I got ridiculously drunk that night, lost my wallet, forgot what city I was in.  However, it had a reputation for being shite then and I got a lot of "stick" for being a real ale drinker as people (who now drink ale!) told me "it all tastes the same".  Well it does when you don't clean your lines.  It stayed questionable up to about the smoking ban (though the raised left area was always non smoking) and then remarkably, ale improved circa July '07.  I did keep telling people, but it wasn't til it got in the GBG that it started getting the credit it deserved.  And a fully deserved regular entrant now, you don't Leeds many other 'Spoons getting in so am quite lucky really.  The people are still quite scroaty, but you can't have everything. 

21/3/14 - after work drinks, giving Sal Hop an Untappd demo in the Stick.

Well, that was a great trip down memory lane.  Forget BRAPA, who's up for a L**ds scum ale trail?

I've still got 5 more White Shite pubs to review, and then we'll move into broader West Yorkshire again, we'll see how it goes.  

Si